In June 2025, Italian fashion giant Prada unveiled men’s sandals at Milan Fashion Week that bore a striking resemblance to traditional Kolhapuri chappals—the centuries old leather footwear handmade in Maharashtra. Initially described merely as “leather sandals,” they sparked a storm of backlash over cultural appropriation and disrespect for GI protected heritage.
This highlights a major limitation—GI protections are territorial and do not automatically apply internationally, making them vulnerable to misuse abroad.
Kolhapuri chappals hold a Geographical Indication (GI) tag since July 2019, legally safeguarding designs rooted in specific districts across Maharashtra and Karnataka.
Key Features of Geographical Indications (GI):
- Community Ownership: GI status is granted to producer groups or communities—not individuals or private companies.
- Non-Transferable Rights: Unlike trademarks, GIs cannot be sold or licensed.
- Time-Bound Protection: GI tags are valid for 10 years and can be renewed indefinitely.
- Cultural Significance: GIs protect the traditional skills, knowledge, and identity associated with a specific region.
- Legal Safeguards: GI registration enables legal action against unauthorized use and infringement.
Importance of GI Tags:
- Preserving Heritage: GIs protect ancient craftsmanship and traditional knowledge systems.
- Economic Empowerment: They enable rural producers to fetch higher prices and boost livelihoods.
- Consumer Trust: GI labels assure authenticity and help combat counterfeiting.
- Promoting Exports & Tourism: Products like Darjeeling Tea, Pashmina, and Mysore Silk have gained global recognition through GI protection.
- Strengthening Self-Reliance: GIs align with the vision of Aatmanirbhar Bharat, encouraging local production and sustainable development.
Limitations of the Current GI Regime:
- No Universal GI Protection: GIs are only enforceable in the country where they are registered; there is no global legal framework.
- Weak Cross-Border Enforcement: Cases like Prada or Basmati illustrate how infringements abroad often lack effective legal remedies.
- Low Awareness Among Producers: Many artisan communities are unaware of their rights or lack the support to assert them.
- Lack of Global GI Database: The absence of a centralized system makes it harder for global brands to verify and avoid infringement.
- Slow & Costly Recognition: Registering a GI in foreign jurisdictions is often time-consuming and expensive.
Notable Historical Cases of Misappropriation:
- Basmati Rice (1997): US firm Ricetec attempted to patent rice strains; India successfully challenged it.
- Turmeric (1995): A patent was revoked after India’s CSIR proved prior use in traditional medicine.
- Neem (2000): A European patent on neem-based antifungal products was cancelled due to prior knowledge in Ayurveda.
Under pressure, Prada acknowledged that the sandals were inspired by traditional Kolhapuri craftsmanship—though they remained in the design stage, with no confirmed production plans Lorenzo Bertelli, heading CSR at Prada, expressed commitment to “responsible design” and dialoguing with Indian artisans and the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce.
Legal & Ethical Implications
- Despite GI protection in India, enforcement does not extend abroad—a loophole Prada capitalized on .
- Legal experts note that while Prada might sidestep infringement via disclaimers like “flat sandals”, the controversy underscores a need for stronger international GI frameworks
- Many argue that global brands should be held to ethical, not just legal, standards—acknowledging sources, sharing royalties, and fostering partnerships with local artisans .
What This Means for Global Craft Protection?
Geographical Indications are crucial for protecting India’s cultural heritage, empowering indigenous economies, and reinforcing brand identity on the global stage. However, the lack of an international enforcement mechanism makes them vulnerable to cultural appropriation.
To safeguard traditional knowledge and craft communities, there is an urgent need for:
- GI Limitations: GI protection remains territorial—foreign appropriations expose gaps.
- Call for Global Frameworks: There’s an urgent need for multilateral agreements to protect cultural heritage internationally.
- Ethical Standards in Fashion: Global brands face growing demand for transparency, proper attribution, and fair compensation.
- Community Empowerment: GI tags, smart branding, and global collaboration can help revitalize fading crafts and support artisans.
The Prada–Kolhapuri chappal incident is a wake-up call. It spotlights how easily tradition can be co-opted unless protected—not just by law, but by global ethical practices. If approached responsibly, it could transform from cultural misstep to catalyst for renewal—giving Kolhapuri artisans rightful credit, sustainable income, and global reach.